Have you exfoliated lately?
Social media has a way of making the ho-hum seem fresh and novel. Case in point: exfoliation, the process of removing dead cells from the skin’s outer layer. Anyone scrolling through TikTok lately might be convinced this longtime skin care approach can transform something old — let’s say our aging epidermis — into like-new skin.
But a Harvard dermatologist says that’s asking too much.
“I don’t think exfoliation is going to fix anybody’s wrinkles,” says Rachel Reynolds, MD, interim chair of dermatology at Harvard-affiliated Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center. While exfoliation offers definite benefits, it can also irritate and inflame the skin if you don’t do it carefully, or use tools or chemicals your skin doesn’t tolerate.
How is exfoliation done?
There are two main ways to exfoliate: mechanical and chemical. Each boasts specific advantages.
- Mechanical (or physical) exfoliation uses a tool such as a brush or loofah sponge, or a scrub containing abrasive particles, to physically remove dead skin cells. “Mechanical exfoliation can improve skin luster by taking off a dead layer of skin that can make it look dull,” Dr. Reynolds says. “And it can help unclog pores a bit, which can reduce some types of acne.”
- Chemical exfoliation uses chemicals — often alpha and beta hydroxy acids or salicylic acid — to liquify dead skin cells. “Chemical exfoliants work on a more micro-level to help dissolve excess skin cells and reduce uneven pigmentation sitting at the surface of the skin,” she explains. “They also restore skin glow, improve acne, and give the skin a little more shine.”
Why do skin care products so often promote exfoliation?
Perhaps hundreds of commercially available skin care products — from body washes to cleansers to face masks — are labeled as exfoliating, Dr. Reynolds notes. But she’s skeptical about why such a wide array of items plug this feature so prominently.
“It’s advantageous for a cosmetics company to sell consumers more products in a skin care line,” she says. “But it’s buyer beware, because this is a completely unregulated market, and cosmetic companies can make claims that don’t have to be substantiated in actual clinical trials.”
Do we need to exfoliate our skin?
No. “Nothing happens if you don’t exfoliate — you just walk around with bumpy or slightly dry skin, which is inconsequential except for cosmetic reasons,” Dr. Reynolds says.
“No one has to exfoliate, but it can be helpful to exfoliate the arms and legs,” she adds. “As we age, these areas get more dry than other parts of the body, and people notice they build up a lot more flaking skin and an almost fish-scale appearance.”
That phenomenon may or may not be a sign of keratosis pilaris, a common but harmless skin condition characterized by rough, bumpy “chicken skin” on the upper arms and thighs. Physical exfoliators are a good first choice because keratosis pilaris covers areas that have tougher skin than the face, she says. But it’s fine to use a cleanser or lotion containing a chemical exfoliant instead. Either type can improve skin texture and the skin’s appearance.
Can exfoliation harm our skin?
Yes. Both physical and chemical exfoliation techniques can do more harm than good, depending on several factors. Sensitive skin is more likely to become irritated or inflamed by any exfoliant. And overdoing it — whether by rubbing too hard or using a product with higher concentrations of acid — can trigger irritant contact dermatitis, which can look red, angry, and chapped.
“Physical exfoliation that’s done too harshly can also aggravate inflammatory acne, making it worse,” Dr. Reynolds says. “Also, exfoliating can make you more prone to sunburn.”
What are the safest ways to exfoliate?
Dr. Reynolds recommends chemical exfoliants over physical versions. “Sometimes the abrasives in those apricot scrubs, for example, can go too far, aggravating the skin and creating inflammation,” she says.
She offers these additional tips to exfoliate safely:
- If you haven’t exfoliated before, start with a simple washcloth to determine how well your skin responds to mild attempts at physical exfoliation.
- Then try gentler chemical exfoliants, such as lower concentrations of hydroxy acids or salicylic acid. Work your way up to stronger concentrations only if needed.
- If you’re hoping to eradicate stubborn skin problems such as melasma (brown facial patches) or comedonal acne (small, skin-colored bumps often on the forehead or chin), consider undergoing a chemical peel at a dermatologist’s office.
Don’t exfoliate every day. “At most, do it two or three times a week,” Dr. Reynolds says. “Your skin needs to repair itself in between exfoliation episodes.”
About the Author
Maureen Salamon, Executive Editor, Harvard Women's Health Watch
Maureen Salamon is executive editor of Harvard Women’s Health Watch. She began her career as a newspaper reporter and later covered health and medicine for a wide variety of websites, magazines, and hospitals. Her work has … See Full Bio View all posts by Maureen Salamon
About the Reviewer
Howard E. LeWine, MD, Chief Medical Editor, Harvard Health Publishing
Dr. Howard LeWine is a practicing internist at Brigham and Women’s Hospital in Boston, Chief Medical Editor at Harvard Health Publishing, and editor in chief of Harvard Men’s Health Watch. See Full Bio View all posts by Howard E. LeWine, MD
A bird flu primer: What to know and do
A bird flu strain that began circulating in 2020 continues to evolve globally and locally within the United States. If you’re wondering what this means, understanding the basics — what bird flu is, how it spreads, whether foods are safe, and prevention tips — can help. More information will come in as scientists learn more, so stay tuned.
1. What is bird flu and how does it spread?
Bird flu, or avian flu, is a naturally occurring illness. Just as certain flu viruses spread among humans, Type A influenza viruses often spread among wild birds. The strain of virus circulating now is H5N1, named for two proteins on its surface.
Avian flu infections are highly contagious. Infection often spreads first among wild water birds, such as ducks, geese, and gulls, and shore birds, such as plovers and sandpipers. The viruses are carried in their intestines and respiratory tract and shed in saliva, mucus, and feces. Wild birds can easily infect domestic poultry, such as chickens, turkeys, and ducks.
Some bird species, including ducks, may carry and spread infection without appearing sick. Domestic flocks are more likely to sicken and possibly die from bird flus. However, not all avian flu viruses are equally harmful:
- Low pathogenic avian influenza (LPAI) may cause no signs of illness, or signs of mild illness like fewer eggs or ruffled feathers in domestic poultry.
- Highly pathogenic avian influenza (HPAI) causes more severe illness and high rates of death in infected poultry. The current H5N1 virus is considered an HPAI.
2. Can humans get bird flu?
Yes, though this doesn’t usually happen.
When flu viruses mutate, they may be able to move from their original hosts — birds in this case — to humans and other animals. As of early April 2024, only two cases of bird flu in humans had been reported in the US since 2022. In May, two more cases were reported. Newer case numbers of bird flu will continue to be reported by the CDC, which offers weekly snapshots of influenza in the US.
The virus may be introduced into the body through the eyes, nose, or mouth. For example, a person may inhale viral particles in the air (droplets, tiny aerosolized particles, or possibly in dust). Or they might touch a surface contaminated by the virus, then touch their eyes or nose. Bird flu in humans typically causes symptoms similar to seasonal flu, such as fever, runny nose, and body aches.
3. Which animals have been affected by bird flu?
A surprisingly long list of animals affected by the current H5NI bird flu infection includes:
- wild birds, chickens, ducks, geese, and other domestic and commercial poultry in 48 states and more than 500 countries
- livestock, such as dairy cows in nine states at this writing, and other farm animals
- marine animals, such as seals, sea lions, and even dolphins
- wild animals, such as foxes, skunks, and racoons, and some domestic animals, such as farm cats.
4. Why are experts concerned about this bird flu outbreak?
It might seem odd that there’s been so much concern and news coverage about bird flu lately. After all, bird flu has been around for many years. We’ve long known it sometimes infects nonbird animal species, including humans.
But the current outbreak is unique and worrisome for several reasons:
- Fast, far-reaching spread. The virus has been found throughout the US, Europe, the Middle East, Southeast Asia, multiple sub-Saharan African countries, and even Antarctica.
- Many species have been infected. Previously uninfected species have been affected, including animals in our food supply.
- Economic impact. If large numbers of beef and dairy cows and chickens sicken or must be culled (killed) to contain outbreaks, this could have a major economic impact on farmers, agriculture businesses, and affected countries’ economies. This could also mean higher prices at the grocery store.
- Opportunities for exposure. Though only two human infections were reported in the US in recent years — both in people working with animals — the more exposure humans have to bird flu, the more chances the virus has to develop mutations that allow easier spread to humans.
- Potential for fatalities. Severe strains of bird flu have led to H5N1 infections in nearly 900 people in 23 countries since 2003. More than half of these reported cases were fatal. Keep in mind that the math isn’t straightforward. It’s likely that many more cases of bird flu in humans occurred, yet people experiencing few or no symptoms or those not tested weren’t counted, so lethality is likely overestimated.
- New mutations. It’s rare, but possible: If this H5N1 bird flu develops mutations that enable efficient person-to-person spread, bird flu could become the next human pandemic.
5. Are milk, beef, chicken, and the rest of our food supply safe?
Public health officials emphasize that the food supply is safe.
But concern has understandably run high since the discovery that this outbreak has spread from birds to dairy cows for the first time. More alarming? A study found fragments of bird flu DNA — which is not the same as live virus — in 20% of commercially available milk in the US.
So far, there’s been no indication that bird flu found in pasteurized milk, beef, or other common foods can cause human illness. Even if live bird flu virus got into the milk supply, studies show that routine pasteurization would kill it. Initial tests did not find the virus in ground beef.
Of course, if you are particularly concerned, you could avoid foods and beverages that come from animals affected by bird flu. For example, you could switch to oat milk or almond milk, even though there’s no convincing scientific justification to do so now.
6. What if you have pets or work with animals?
Bird flu rarely spreads to pets. While that’s good news, your pets could have exposure to animals infected with bird flu, such as through eating or playing with a dead bird. So, it’s safest to limit your pet’s opportunities to interact with potentially infected animals.
If you work with animals, especially birds or livestock, or hunt, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommends precautions to minimize your exposure to bird flu.
7. What else can you do to stay safe?
The CDC recommends everyone take steps to avoid exposure to bird flu, including:
- Avoid contact with sick or dead animals and keep pets away from them.
- Avoid animal feces that may be contaminated by birds or bird droppings, as might be common on a farm.
- Do not prepare or eat raw or undercooked food.
- Do not drink raw (unpasteurized) milk or eat raw milk cheese or raw or undercooked foods from animals suspected of having bird flu infection.
- Wear personal protective equipment (PPE), such as safety goggles, gloves, and an N95 face mask, when working near sick or dead animals or their feces.
Right now, available evidence doesn’t support more dramatic preventive measures, such as switching to an all-plant diet.
8. Is there any good news about bird flu?
Despite all the worrisome news about bird flu, this recent outbreak may wind up posing little threat to human health. Virus strains may mutate to spread less efficiently or to be less deadly. Efforts are underway to contain the spread of bird flu to humans, including removing sick or exposed animals from the food supply and increased testing of dairy cattle before transport across state lines.
And there is other encouraging news:
- Some birds appear to be developing immunity to the virus. This could reduce the chances of continued spread between birds and other animals.
- Developing a vaccine to protect cattle from bird flu may be possible (though it’s unclear if this approach will be successful).
- If spread to humans does occur, genetic tests suggest available antiviral medicines could help treat people.
- So far, human-to-human transmission has not been detected. That makes it less likely that the H5N1 bird flu will become the next pandemic.
- And if human infections with bird flu did become more common, researchers are working on human vaccines against bird flu using virus strains that match well with those causing the current outbreak.
9. How worried should you be about bird flu?
Though there’s much we don’t know, this much seems certain: bird flu will continue to change and pose challenges for farmers and health experts to stay ahead of it. So far, public health experts believe that bird flu poses little health risk to the general public.
So, it’s not time to panic about bird flu. But it is a good idea to take common sense steps to avoid exposure and stay current on related news.
For updated information in the US, check the CDC website .
About the Authors
Robert H. Shmerling, MD, Senior Faculty Editor, Harvard Health Publishing; Editorial Advisory Board Member, Harvard Health Publishing
Dr. Robert H. Shmerling is the former clinical chief of the division of rheumatology at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center (BIDMC), and is a current member of the corresponding faculty in medicine at Harvard Medical School. … See Full Bio View all posts by Robert H. Shmerling, MD
Francesca Coltrera, Editor, Harvard Health Blog
Francesca Coltrera is editor of the Harvard Health Blog, and a senior content writer and editor for Harvard Health Publishing. She is an award-winning medical writer and co-author of Living Through Breast Cancer and The Breast … See Full Bio View all posts by Francesca Coltrera
About the Reviewer
John Ross, MD, FIDSA, Contributor; Editorial Advisory Board Member, Harvard Health Publishing
Dr. John Ross is an assistant professor of medicine at Harvard Medical School. He is board certified in internal medicine and infectious diseases, and practices hospital medicine at Brigham and Women’s Hospital. He is the author … See Full Bio View all posts by John Ross, MD, FIDSA